Home & Interiors Scotland August 2006

Out on a Limb

The Highland village of Applecross might be remote, but for breathtaking views and quiet seclusion it can’t be beaten.  Catherine Coyle reveals why a trip to the stylish haven of Callakille Croft is worth the perilous journey.

The words ‘contemporary’ and ‘croft’ are not the easiest of bedfellows.  Too often, property programmes and interiors magazines (this one excepted, naturally) extol the virtues of meddling the old and the new, combining aspects of the traditional and modern, often in a haphazard, directionless manner that leave homes looking poorly executed and without clear personality.  When said properties are holiday homes, dressed to appeal to eager vacationers looking to relax and unwind without having to travel abroad, you might find that what you’ve booked falls into the stereotypically Scottish stag’s-head-and-tartan ilk of self-catering accommodation.

However, when your business is online boutique Papa Stour, which takes pride in bringing together chic and contemporary Scottish arts and crafts, your foray into property has a lot to live up to in the style stakes.  Enter Rosie Brown, the Scottish textile designer, stylist and entrepreneur whose contemporary take on a traditional Highland croft once owned by her aunt – now rejuvenated by Rose and her partner Ewan – will certainly banish all bad memories of poor, unimaginative self-catering accommodation.  Rosie has just completed her renovation of the property which has been in her family for generations, and the resulting bolthole is impressive to say the least.

Once you’ve packed your provisions (you’ll need them- this is one hell of a journey) the road to Rosie’s Callakille Croft, situated eight miles north of Applecross in the northwest Highlands, is a bit of an adventure.  You’ll be treated to some of the most awe-inspiring Scottish scenery along the way, from Glencoe’s moody Rannoch Moor to the commanding Ben Nevis and picturesque West Highland and Great Glen Ways, so approaching the coastline towards Skye, you’ll feel you’ve seen as much of Scotland as could in any holiday.  And all of this before negotiating one of the scariest roads in Britain.  The Bealach a Ba or Pass of the Cattle – was, until 1976, the only road into Applecross.  Its reputation precedes it – but if I can’t convince you of how daunting this climb is, the huge red warning signs at either side of the road, just before the ascent begins, might.  Learner drivers are advised to give it a miss, opting instead for the route around the mountains into the tiny township.

Never one to shirk a challenge, I begin to tackle the road that climbs 2053 feet above sea level  in a mere six – mile stretch. I’m momentarily reminded of the cartoon Wacky Races as I traverse the mountain face in complete darkness, tackling hairpin bend after hairpin bend until what looks like mist obscures my view (I’m up so high, I now not only realise that it’s cloud I’m driving through, but that the altitude is making me giddy).  Arriving safely at the other side, it’s a further six miles to Callakille.

It’s a sparsely populated area, the Clearances leaving it with around one tenth of the community it once held.  The croft sits in isolation, perched perfectly on the edge of the west coast, looking out onto Skye, Rona and Raasay.  It’s a bit of shock, to be honest: most self catering holiday rentals have a tendency to talk up the great Scottish views, fabulous surrounding scenery and convenient proximity to the water, but in this case, all the above is true.  This is possibly the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen in Scotland.

The croft is whitewashed with a pretty duck egg-hued gate and windowsills – its picture postcard perfect.  The front of the house is about ten metres ( and a 50 –feet drop) from the wild Inner Sound.  The crashing tides and the odd bleating sheep are about all you can hear for miles around.  Inside, the croft has a dining kitchen, lounge, bathroom and two bedrooms- one double, one twin, each given the care and attention to detail that you’d envy for your own residence.

There’s an intoxicating mix of clever flea market finds, high street purchases and individual pieces from artist friends.  A wood-burning stove casts a warm glow around the snug, berry-coloured living room; the walls are dotted with sepia-toned family photographs, showing the original owners at work and play.  The kitchen is an altogether brighter affair with a second-hand table and chairs sitting snugly among Habitat knick-knacks.  There’s a flood of light from the stairwell, courtesy of the three Velux windows, the only windows to the rear of this very exposed building.

Upstairs, the two bedrooms are cosy havens decked out in the best Papa Stour has to offer.  Almost everything you touch (you won’t be able to help yourself) has been handcrafted by Scottish makers or hails from our wee nation.  The sun-scorched antlers above the front door, the deerskins casually strewn across the white painted floorboards and the Harris Tweed cushions nestling in every crevice of the character-filled furniture resemble pieces that could have been there since the turn of the century.  Rosie’s sympathetic treatment of this property – family and fond memories remain at its heart – means that there’s nothing crassly anachronistic about this house’ just a fresh, creative interior that you’ll relish holding up in, even if only for a few days.

Cottages in the area:-

Callakille
Bayside Cottage
Ceol na Mara
Pine Lodge
Woodside Lodge